Nephew Love

What's new? I got a haircut, I'm well into my new job as a Room Service Associate at OHSU, and I am working on two menswear commissions. My littlest nephew Alex (a.k.a. Boogie, Boogsimous, Boogsley) loves hopping up on my lap and watching the sewing machine while I work. Look how studious he is!  

That is all for now. Happy sewing!

Another Liebster Award? How Sweet!

Awe, ladies guess what? I was nominated for the Liebster Blog award for the 2nd time in just 5 months! I am a smidge overwhelmed by life right now (I can't WAIT to tell you all about the new internship I am starting next month) so it has taken me a bit to create this post. I just want to be sure that Stephanie (the luminously lovely and beautiful) at MabelMakes knows how thankful I am for the recognition!

Note: I am not going to pass this along since I mentioned my favorite up and coming blogs in my last nomination post and I honestly haven't had time to find new ones. But I love all the sewcialists out there and think you're all amazing!!

Stephanie's Questions:

1. Tell me a few things about you and why you sew or knit?

I was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. It's a pretty crafty city and my Mom put my sisters and I in arts magnet schools, wherein we had dance rather than P.E. and music and art class were not slashed from regular curriculum like at other public schools.

I've loved all kinds of art forms from pottery to photography, but when I started sewing a little over a year ago I just couldn't stop! I like making clothes that fit and incorporating my own artistic touches into each piece. 

2. Why did you start your blog?

I discovered the Colette Flickr group last January and I wanted to be one of the cool kids who posted pics with links to their awesome blogs! 

3. What is your fashion style? Does it match your handmade style?

I am still figuring that out. All I know is, if I were to create a wardrobe for someone else it would be much more edgy than the way I dress. I have good intentions of being fierce, but then I buy a giant pink hair bow and round-toe flats. I'd say sewing enables my innate adorableness I guess. Idk if that is a good thing or not, but it is what it is.

4. Where do you get your inspiration for projects from?

Well, I sew everything to fit very specifically. I think I usually pick patterns that will flatter my shape or make me feel comfortable. Once the fit is perfect and the garment itself is totally finished, I look at it and think what kind of embellishment it wants. Beads? Embroidery? Pink braided piping?

Other than that, I switch between picking a pattern to fit a specific vintage fabric and buying new fabric to fit a vintage pattern.

5. Where did you learn to sew/knit/crochet?

I learned the brass tacks from my Mom, but am mostly self-taught.

6. What is your process – for sewing do you make a muslin, for knitting do you make sure to swatch? Or do you just make it up as you go?

So. Many. Muslins. I am still learning and with all the alterations I make to the pattern pieces, I often have no idea if things will match up or fit correctly. I make anywhere from 1 to 3 muslins per project.

7. Where do you buy your fabric or wool?

Vintage shops, Pendleton Woolen Mill, Mill End or Fabric Depot.

8. What technique or item of clothing are you afraid to make?

Pants! And flys for pants. And welt pockets.

9. What was the first thing you ever made?

The first wearable garment I made was a blue Colette Patterns "Pastille Dress." I still don't know how I pulled it off, having never made anything more complex than curtains before. I guess sewing is my calling!

10. What is the best thing you ever made?

Oooooh, hmmm... Probably My Martha Dress? Which I like to wear styled like this. Or maybe My Pendleton Peony. The fit is perfect and I actually took the time to line it.

11. Do you work in a creative industry? If not do you plan to eventually make a business out of your crafting or do you want to keep it a lovely hobby?

I DO! I have two internships, one as a production assistant at a boutique and one that is still top secret. I also have a "day job" which is actually an evening job as a food server at a hospital. I don't have much time these days for my personal work, especially since I am working on commissions at the moment. But I don't think I'll ever stop crafting!

I'll be posting soon about my Great Gatsby Sewing Challenge results. Happy sewing everyone! 

MadMen Sewing Challenge #2: The Peggy Dress

A brief review of how this dress came to be:

- I decided to draft this kimono sleeve bodice myself out of necessity. I had zero money to spend on a new pattern but I did have a lot of free time. I explored my vintage pattern stash and discovered a '50s Simplicity dress pattern with a pleated skirt that fit with just a little bit of downgrading as well as a '50's kimono sleeve topper jacket pattern. I used my Colette Peony bodice pattern as a kind of sloper which I traced and drafted muslin #1.

- The next day I reworked the fit and attempted underarm gussets to help alleviate some of the shoulder wrinkling. I wound up with a pretty good muslin #2. If you follow my instagram you may have seen me hyperventilating over the magical alignment of my bodice darts with the skirt pleats and seams. I still cannot believe that a self-drafted bodice just magically aligned with my skirt pattern!

- For my final garment I used a red and green Pendleton cotton. I nixed the underarm gussets because I couldn't figure out how to create a lining (though I didn't end up lining the dress) and because I was generally afraid of a plaid disaster. I rushed on the construction of my mandarin colar and there are a few imperfections, but all in all I adore this dress! It's such a classic '60s style yet it fits more like a '50s housewife dress. 

My Peggy Dress won 4th in a costume contest at The Gypsy!

They made all the finalists dance for a whole song in front of the entire bar. Good thing the twist is an easy dance move! Plus the 3 old-fashioneds helped. 

I loved that lady's teal dress and her hair. I had my hair done up as well, but didn't get a good shot. 

Doesn't that lady's dress remind you of the picture in Roger Sterling's office??

Bib construction:

I went with a side zipper but then couldn't figure out how to fit my head through the mandarin collar. I decided not to cut the bodice front on the fold as I had done with my muslins, that way I could create an opening that could be hidden with the bib. This is the same bodice construction as My Martha Dress.

I made a backing out of a silk/cotton blend with lovely drape, then hand sewed a polyester ribbon on, working my way up from the bottom.

There is a hook and eye closure and a snap. I feel like this was pretty ingenious if I do say so myself! I mean, Peggy's is better but I did what I could.

Bias Tape finish on hemline and sleeves:

Plaid Matching and Dart Matching:

Ya win some ya lose some, am I right? I think I'd like a thin black belt to wear with this in the future. 

The Final Product:

I love the back even more than the front! Is that weird?

Thanks for the excuse to smoke!

Seriously, I don't feel this pretty very often so I'm just gonna post these vanity shots. Sorry if it is self-indulgent but... its my blog! I do what I want!

Twist and Shout!

 

Ok, NOW I can get to work on some contemporary patterns. Phew!

Pattern Drafting for Daisy

What did I do this weekend? I was escorted to my first runway show! Couve Couture is a bi-annual fashion show in Vancouver, WA, the town is just over the Columbia River from Portland. Vancouver is to Portland what Portland is to Seattle, meaning they've got a bit of an inferiority complex. It was really hilarious hearing the announcer shout, "This is a VANCOUVER show and it's got NOTHING to do with Portland!" and all the horribly dressed audience members cheered. Yes, the general population of Vantuckey/The Couve is pretty poorly dressed. But with past Project Runway participant Bryce Black and winner Seth Aaron and a few other vintage inspired local designers, the overall show was pretty fun.

I fell asleep that night imagining options for my Great Gatsby Sewing Challenge Daisy Dress. In the morning I created this Pinterest Board of sheer dropwaist ideas and then sketched this:

It's almost looks like a smock with that lapped skirt, right? I didn't want to weigh the dress down by sewing on a heavy 3" ribbon and bow, so simply drafted a band that attached to the bodice and skirt with french seams. I can then sew a bow and tack it onto the side. I figured I'd finish the neck and arms with bias tape. 

I've had this sheer floral poly that I intended to save for a Roxanne Blouse by Victory Patterns, but I really wanted to see how my self-drafted Daisy dress fit (it only took me 30 minutes to draft!). 

Here is a very rough first version:

Please excuse the unkempt appearance, this was Sunday night after I spent the day working on the dress (and mostly watching Sex in the City). I didn't finish the neck and arms at this point because I ended up putting my iron to the skirt before the iron was sufficiently hot and I burned 5 holes in the dress:

Uggggg, that's what you get for impatiently rushing a project while hung-over-ish. I may be able to add some appliqué but I'm not too concerned since the dress turned out shorter than I wanted and I was super sloppy with my seams. (Why are the most lovely fabrics the hardest to sew??) This might work as lingerie though, which is kinda fun ;) 

Here is where I'd like feedback! I am obviously lengthening the skirt, but do you think I should keep this smock-esque design or change it into a gathered skirt? I am going to keep the fit as is, I like that it fits my bust and my hips pretty snugly and poofs a bit at the hips. (What?! I like baggy hips? You so crazy, '20s fashion.)

I'm gonna use this amazing blue silk with cream accents and I've gotta look really fly 'cuz I may very well be escorted by a gentleman or two wearing suits from The Brooks Brothers Gatsby Collection. These are my two fav looks:

Drool!

Menswear, Portland Style

Check out Gene rockin' the Pendleton Negroni I made!

After sporting this to a party, I received three new commissions for men's shirts! If you've never been to Portland you may not know what fabulous style our male population has. Like the ladies, they are lovers of vintage, steam punk, and anything craft oriented. Since we are also a very health conscious and physically active city, a lot of these guys are pretty lean. Thus, all the local shops sell out their SMALL vintage Pendleton's really fast, and the modern production shirts tend to be too baggy in the torso (a trend in menswear which I think stems from the growth of the average American male). The point is, there is a real demand for fitted vintage inspired men's shirts and I am more than happy to accomodate!

In other news, I just got a Production Assistant Internship at MagBig and they're allowing me to use their sewing studio (AND their machines!) to work on my own line. I am also allowed to sell anything I make in their boutique! I'll probably perfect my 60's Shift Dress and sell that in the store because it's the most ready-to-wear of the vintage patterns I have. 

What kind of vintage styles do you tend to buy in stores? Shirtwaist, shift, circle skirts?

"You always look so cool." - The Great Gatsby

Well, I've finished Rochelle's 40s Sew For Victory Challenge (check out the Final Project Parade video!) and now Julia's 60s MadMen Challenge (post to follow later this week) and I told everyone I know that I'm going to make a modern style garment next... but now Erin is tempting me to venture into the roaring 20s with her Great Gatsby Challenge! I should say no... I should resist... I really need to consider my wardrobe and address the gaping hole in my blouse section, but... I AM IN! Ok I'll admit that I was in over a week ago when she first mentioned it on her blog and I left a very enthusiastic comment in support of her endeavor. I am so excited! Anyone else have any plans to participate?

More Then Dresses: I Made A Men's Shirt!

Frank Eugene Johnson's Vintage Wool Pendleton Button Up

I was at Hawthorne Vintage when I found the blue plaid Pendleton I used for my Peony as well as this more manly plaid wool. I decided it was high time I created something more intricate (well, not necessarily more intricate, but tailored in a way that I was less accustomed to) and I purchased the Colette Patterns Negroni Pattern. 

I was also gearing up to make my Sew For Victory dress, which has a button-up bodice. I was nervous to try a shirtwaist dress for the first time using a vintage pattern. As always, the instructions in my Colette Pattern Booklet lead me through this Negroni project with ease and when it came time to make my Doris Dress, it was a breeze! 

Not having a definite buyer for the shirt (and having only just 3 yards of fabric) I went ahead and cut it out in size small. As it turns out, small men's Pendleton shirts are in high demand in PDX. I found a friend who was interested in buying this shirt, even though I didn't have enough fabric to make full-length sleeves. Yes, it is a bit awkward to have a heavy shirt that has short sleeves, but as my mother said, "They usually end up rolling the sleeves up anyway." 

So my friend Gene ended up buying this shirt and it looks fantastic on him. As with my Sew For Victory dress, I waited for a few weeks after the project was complete, hoping I would snag some professional photos of my model in his garment. At this point I am just too excited about sharing this piece to wait any longer, so I'll tell you about how this shirt was constructed. 

Would you please just look at that plaid matching?! I do wish that the instructions had called to cut the pockets on the bias, as I've seen others do with their Negroni pattern. I had a bit of a tough time getting the corners of the pockets perfectly (and evenly) rounded but all in all I think they're ok for a first attempt. You heard right, somehow these are my first flapped pockets!

 

This is the monogram I added for Gene, his proper name is "Frank Eugene Johnson the 5th." I think it is pretty bad ass up close, but it kinda blends into the plaid from far away. Well, I do like subtlety. 

There was something about the little triangles you sew on the inside of the pockets to hold them down that just really got me. They're so cute! I don't think you can even really see them in this pic, but they make me ridiculously happy. The magic is in the details.

 

Ugh, look at that yoke plaid matching!! Braaaag. Even the pleats keep the plaid pattern in line. I am so stoked about this shirt. Can you tell? 

I had a picture of what sewing the yoke looked like, but my iPhone deleted it. I really wish you could see what a mess of fabric it looked like. It was one of those moments where you're looking at the instructions, then back at your project, and you're like "Whaaaaaat? Am I doing that right??" And you just have to go with your gut and hope for the best. 

So, in order to sew a yoke on a shirt, you've gotta roll the shirt back up to meet the outter yoke, then pull the yoke lining around that and sew the two yoke pieces together. Yoke. Does that make sense? Well, I ended up having to squeeze so much thick wool fabric between the small yoke pieces that I had to switch to a zipper foot on my machine and just barely managed to get a .5" seam allowance. Then I had the terrifying job of turning the piece right-side-out. That's the moment where you pray your gut decision was the right one. I pulled and pulled and then, suddenly, there was my complete shirt back! Oh, the joy! I danced around the room for a bit then pressed the seam, thoroughly enjoying my plaid matching. 

 Facing: 

I was running our of fabric (because I bought it at a vintage store and couldn't just go get more) so the facings are composed of four seperate pieces rather than two long strips. It added a tiny bit of bulk, but its still pretty inconspicuous. 

 

Oh man, these are close-ups of the hem and the facing of the buttons. Love! I wish it were a little bit easier to see all of the construction details but they all get camouflaged in the plaid. 

Catch-stitched facing. 

Buttons:

Hand-sewn reinforced buttons. I saw this done on a coat to allow room for the bulky layers to fit inside the button-closure. Sew the button on loosely so it has some give, then wrap your thread around it to reinforce it. 

 Tag:

 

"Nerdy Girl Vintage" prototype tag. 

I hope you like this shirt as much as I do! Hopefully I'll get a shot of my model in it soon. For now, I am pretty excited about how great the shirt looks on it's own. I can't wait to make full length sleeves. My goal was to practice cuffs and all of that as well, so you'll probably see more shirts from me soon. 

Happy sewing!!